Lets talk about other intonation methods...
Using only a modest tuner and basic skills, your guitar can be intonated
properly if you follow some basic steps.
The following intonation setup process is included only as a "try
it and see if it works for you". Even if you don't follow the direction
fully, we find that there is enough information to help out with a more
traditional intonation setup.
By definition, the 12th
fret harmonic and the open string are exact octaves, unless there's something
wrong with the string. If there's a string problem then the intonation
will be off anyway. And because the harmonic is vibrating at a higher
frequency it's easier to match the pitches.
If you're having trouble getting the harmonic, don't put any pressure
on the string. All you want to do is prevent the large wave of the open
string from developing so the string vibrates from the node at the 12th
fret. Touch the string there, but don't deflect it at all. Pick it close
to the bridge and you'll get a harmonic. Use the bridge PUP however-
the node is generally right above the neck PUP. And the node is where
the string is NOT vibrating so the neck PUP can't get any signal there.
It's also important to set intonation while the guitar is in playing position. The weight of the neck can be enough to pull it sharp enough to make your adjustments wrong. The actual position of the saddles will vary depending on how high your action is, what guage strings you use, even brand (because different wound strings can use different ratios of core to wrap wire). All these things will affect where your saddles need to be. On a regular 3-piece Tele bridge, you wind up needing to average the "out of tune-ness" of each pair of strings. You try to get it so the E is sharp as much as the B is flat. But lots of times you'll find that it'll work out.
Adjust the neck relief, saddle
height and nut height first. Put on a new set of strings and stretch
them so they are stable (I usually put a new set on before I go to
bed and tune them a half step sharp, by the next day they are fairly
stable). If a string fretted at the 12th fret is sharper than the
string played open, move the saddle away from the neck. If the string
fretted at the 12th fret is flatter than the string played open,
move the saddle toward the neck. Once you've got the intonation in
the ball park you can fine tune it as described in my first post.
Unless you install compensated saddles, a three saddle bridge requires
some intonation compromises. Also, if you change the saddle height,
nut height, neck relief or string gauge the intonation can change.
Compare the open string to the fretted string
at the 12th fret (not the harmonic at the 12th fret). Adjust the E/A
saddle so that the A is accurately intonated. The E will be a little
sharp open, so tune to the A note at the fifth fret. The E will then
a little flat open, but it's ok. Adjust the D/G saddle so that the
D is accurately intonated. The G will be a little sharp open, so tune
to the G at the 12th fret. The G will be a little flat, but it's ok.
For the B/E saddle try to get them as close as possible, the E will
probably a hair flat and the B a hair sharp.